DIY Differential work stand

This is just a little DIY differential work stand I came up with.  Nothing spectacular but does the job and is under $10.


For this I used a 2 x 6, eight foot long.  A 2 5/8" hole saw made the notches for the axle to sit in.   Measure one foot from the end of the board and use the hole saw to drill hole.  Cut this board at the one foot mark and you have your uprights.  Then cut a board 32 1/2" long, this will be the base.  Use a couple lag bolts on both ends to secure it.  I had some 90° framing pieces so I bolted them on.  Not necessary but it adds strength.  Two lag screws secure it to the table.  To hold the yoke end up I just used a hammer to prop it up.  This should last years.

Painting the AMC 258

The engine was power washed, hit with a wire brush and some de-rusting solution.  Then cleaned again.  The distributor, fuel pump, oil sender, spark plugs, water pump and thermostat housing was removed.  Everything was cleaned again then things were masked off.


The spark plug holes where the most difficult part to mask off.  Tape circles were cut out then tweezers were used to mask the holes.


Time to put some lipstick on this pig.  For the paint I am using Seymour EN-66 AMC blue metallic spray cans.  It was given four light coats.  The block took one can by itself.



My replacement oil pan was also painted.


Still have to paint the pulleys, valve cover and intake.

AMC 20 part 5 - buttoning it up

I found a .250 roll pin fits fine and won't come out.  So now the rear carrier is done.   Over the course of a few years I lost the differential filler plug.  If I remember right it was in poor shape anyways.


This is what you will need to plug the hole.  It is a brass pipe plug you find in the Home Depot plumbing department.  Nice thing about brass it won't rust solid.


It will also look really nice on a freshly painted rear end.   It does not stick out that far, I just have it in by a couple threads.  When you are ready fill the rear end up with 80w-90 oil to the bottom of the fill hole.  Wrap the threads of the plug with some teflon tape and install the plug.


The breather fitting had a hole in it and needed to be repaired. When I had the axle out I drilled and tapped it for a 7/16-20 thread. Into it is a 7/16-20 to 1/4" nipple. I will be replacing this with a -4 AN fitting. It uses the same thread size.


Finally here is a shot of the diff guard I installed.  Only thing left to do is assemble the brakes, bend some brake lines and put the wheels on.

AMC 20 part 4 - Installing axle and locker

I have installed the AMC 20 on the Jeep frame.  It just bolts on and is pretty strait forward so I did not feel the need to document it.  But here is a picture.


From this point I put the axle on jack stands and removed the tire.  Only the passengers side axle was not installed due to having to be sent back for re-machining.   First thing is to assemble the components in the right order per the instructions.  Remember to pack the bearing with grease.


Put engine assembly lube on the bearing surface for easier assembly.  Use a clamp to hold the parts together when you put the axle in the press.


Use the press to seat the bearing.


If you put the backing plate on the wrong way and press the bearings on, this is what your $50 mistake will look like.  Bearings cannot be pulled off they have to be cut off.


Once bearings are on install the axle.  Instead of using the regular gears that come with the diff I used a Richmond Lock Right locker.  This will ensure that power will get to the wheels even if one wheel is off the ground.  Somehow I misplaced the roll pin and will have to find a .260" roll pin replacement.  Then I can button it up and put fluid in it.