Dana 30 part 5 - Spindle inspection

The old G.I. Joe cartoons said it best when they say "Knowing is half the battle".  After picking up the new JP Magazine and reading about a Dana 30 they bought that was trashed it got me to thinking.  First was my Jeep had a lot of half-assed repairs on it.  Then I thought well the one side of the Dana 30 had the ball joints replaced.  In the JP Magazine article they stated that their spindles were ruined cause an uniformed shade tree mechanic used a metal hammer to remove the spindles.  Now with mine I used a rubber mallet or if needed a 2x4 with a 5lb sledge.  Did not even think of looking for poorly executed repairs.  Upon further inspection of my spindles sure enough one side had been hammered off and damaged.  Right on the bearing surfaces.



Unacceptable.  Lucky for me only one was hammered.  Ended up ordering two off eBay due to the place having them for $10 a piece.  Will take my chances and see if one is good.  Otherwise a new one is around $90-100.  OEM always is better than the crap made in China.  If this was a vehicle for just off road fun then maybe I would just smooth it over with a file, but I intend on driving this on the street.

DON'T CUT CORNERS AND MAKE HALF-ASSED REPAIRS.   TAKE PRIDE IN WHAT YOU DO AND DO IT RIGHT TO THE BEST OF YOUR ABILITIES.

Dana 30 part 4 - Putting it back together, pinion yoke

Now that things are starting to get cleaned up and painted it is time to put it back together.  Since this is a total rebuild with new bearings we have to install new bearing races into the axle.  To do this I used a couple things.  First up is a Harbor Freight - bearing race and seal driver set.  This was a great tool for the AMC 20 rear axle.


But...  The bearings on the Dana 30 pinion did not fit any adapters from this kit.  So I fired up my metal lathe and turned an adapter.


But...  When I used my 12 ton HF press the bearing race after lubricating with 'engine assembly lube' it went in askew.  So I broke out the $6 brass punch and tapped it into place.  On the yoke side I just used the brass punch.  The moral of the story is you don't need specialized tools all the time.  Could have saved $30 on the set and bought a $6 brass punch instead.  Just remember tap, not hammer.   Don't try to be like Thor.


Here is the inside race.  Before setting the race in side place the baffle in first then the shims.  Lastly press the race into place. 


Press the new bearing onto the pinion.  Take the old yoke side bearing and remove the cage that holds the roller.  Split it with a grinder and then open it up by wedging in a piece of metal.  This will make the hole bigger.  Press on the new bearing putting on the oil slinger first followed by the bearing.   Use engine assembly lube on the new bearing.  Put the split bearing on as a collar and press on the new bearing.  Grease the bearings.  You don't have to pack it tightly,  just enough so it does not run dry when you first start using it.


Now install the shims onto the pinion followed by the bearing, bearing shield then seal.   Put the yoke on followed by the new washer and nut.  Torque to 220 ft lbs and check for a rotational torque of 20 inch pounds.   Keep tightening till you reach at least 20 inch pounds.  Ok yoke is done.  *Keep in mind I am reusing the original setup and not changing gears.  If I was using new gears I would not be using the same shims and going through the process with gauges.


If you are wondering I am using a Jet BD-920 metal lathe.   This is referred to as an Asian 9x20.  They have been made for over 30 years now and are a copy of the Emco Compact 8 lathe.  I have had this one for 10-13 years and it has served me well.  It is meant for home use and is quite capable despite what negative things have been said about it.  Two mods make a big difference on this lathe.   The 4 screw compound clamp and a AXA quick change tool holder.  There are many sources on the web for these tools.

Dana 30 part 3 - POR-15 application

Now that the Dana 30 is completely disassembled and wire brushed we need to prevent it from rusting again.  First thing that was done is it was coated with a rust converter.  It is basically phosphoric acid so if you use it do it outside and use gloves.  Next thing is to do is encapsulate the metal from the elements.  This is where the POR-15 comes in.  POR stands for Paint Over Rust.  It is a plastic type of coating that prevents the metal from moisture.  If there is no moisture there will be no rust.


It is $50-60 a quart but worth every penny.  However it needs UV protection to make it last.  A coating of paint or clear coat that is all that is needed.


I would recommend doing this outside but right now in SW Florida it is rainy season.  So plastic sheeting will be put down in the garage.  I put it on sawhorses with a pvc pipe running though the center so I can rotate it.


And here it is after painting.  You need to do a minimum of 2 coats with 2-6 hours in between coats.


With as expensive as this coating is you should follow the directions on the can and put plastic wrap in between the lid and can. Once it sets up it is all but impossible to remove the lid.